The most important thing to understand about caring for your board are the affects from heat. Heat can cause damage such as de-laminations, warping, material weakness, or fading. So always be conscious to keep the board cool at all times. Do not leave in direct sunlight, even when using a board bag, on top of your car, or in bubble wrap. Avoid baking the board in the sun when using. If the surface of the board is hot to the touch then action should be taken to cool it down. Always store your board in a well ventilated area and avoid extreme temperatures.
All EPS core boards contend a large percentage of air confined within the sealed and water tight skin of the board. The volume of the “trapped” air changes considerably when exposed to extreme temperatures and altitude changes, and may cause damage to the board. The small Gore-Tex air vent installed in the board helps stabilize this pressure change as it allows air to escape, without letting any water in. This vent requires no maintenance and should not be loosened or removed. Do not let dirt, sand, mud, or debris get built up around the vent and block it’s airway. Always wash it down with fresh water after using the board in salt water. Venting the board will greatly reduce potential problems but it is not a complete immunization. Keep the board cool at all times.
The shell of your hard board is made of fiberglass and can become compromised upon impact or pressure. Compression dents, dings, or cracks are possible with rough handling of the board or improper use. Try to avoid contacting hard surfaces when riding the board, transporting the board, or general handling of the board. Do not stand on areas of the board other than the deck pad. Do not stand on the board when beached or on a hard surface. Use soft foam pads around your car roof racks and between stacked boards when transporting. Do not over-tighten the straps when transporting on your car and never use ratchet tie-downs. Use a board bag to help protect your board in these situations. And remember to never overheat your board as fiberglass gets soft when hot and is more prone to these type of issues. Handle your board with care at all times.
On occasion you may experience some unsightly bubbling in the deck pad. This is a normal occurrence and you should not be alarmed. When deck pads are adhered to the board in the factory, sometimes air gets trapped underneath the pad without knowing. When the board gets used out in the sun, this trapped air heats up and expands to present themselves as bubbles under the deck pad. If this happens, you can remedy the issue by poking a small hole in the deck pad with a fine needle to release the trapped air. The 3M adhesive on the underside of the pad is still extremely tacky and the pad will re-adhere to the board. Often times, the bubbles will disappear on their own after a couple of uses of the board.
Never over-inflate your inflatable boards past the recommended pressure. The sun/heat will add a couple psi so manage the pressure accordingly. Do not leave in direct sunlight. Always store your board in a cool dry place or shady area when not in use. Do not store fully inflated (reduce to about 6 psi or lower). Do not “roll” your board up when fully deflated, instead lightly “fold” it in flat sections so the fin box stays straight and the creases on the rails are loose. Make sure hose is not crushed or bent when packing. Do not strap or transport inflatable boards on car roof racks. And remember, the pump gauge is not broken, you just have to push harder 😉 It will not register a number until significant resistance, so keep pumping!
Your hard board comes equipped with a standard 10″ fin box. The fin box is designed to accept our standard fin as well as most aftermarket fins. Your fin should fit snug into the fin box.
To install the fin, remove the aluminum plate and screw from the fin and insert the aluminum plate down into the center of the fin box and slide it into the recessed track as far forward as possible (for access later). Set the fin into the fin box by inserting the pegs into the opening until it bottoms out, then slide it as far backwards as you would like. Next, push the front of the fin into the box, use a screw driver to slide the aluminum plate under the fin to align with the screw hole, and attach the fin to the aluminum plate with the provided screw.
Do not over-tighten the screw as this could cause damage to the fin box. If the fin is difficult to push down into the fin box, use light sand paper to sand each side of the fin base until it is an easier fit.
The location of your stance is an important part of board performance in terms of speed, glide, and stability. Our boards in particular are meant to use the entire length of the board on the water with the nose effortlessly cutting through it, unlike other shapes (like planing hulls) where the nose & tail are sticking up above the waterline.
In general, you want the nose of our boards to be right on or in the water when you’re standing still on it in calm water. Use a friend to inspect the height of your board nose as you find this ideal position. For reference, this sweet spot is located at the center of the carrying handle for all our boards except the StealthTech shapes – the sweet spot for those shapes is located a couple inches in front of the carrying handle.
Of course, this position will vary for each individual due to rider weight and skill level, but it isn’t exactly necessary to have fun paddling so it’s okay to use whatever position is the most comfortable for you.
Paddle shafts are designed to be custom cut for a personal fit. The correct length is very much determined by the use. All measurements are added to the individual paddleboarder’s overall height. Add 8″-10″ if you are mainly paddling in flat-water with some occasional mild surf use. Add up to 12″ for racing or open ocean touring. Add 6″-8″ if you spend most of your time in high performance surf and have developed good paddle strength.
Paddle length is a personal thing but from our experience the measurements above work best for MOST people. If unsure, start out longer, as you can always shorten your paddle (but never lengthen it once you cut it). A longer shaft puts less strain on your back (but may aggravate shoulder injuries). Most people start out spending more time on flat-water, where a longer paddle works best. And because we specialize in flat-water stand up paddleboards, we recommend the total length to be 8″-10″ above your height. As a general rule of thumb, place the paddle on the ground and raise your arm straight overhead (but not overextended), the handle grip should be around your wrist or your palm.
Lakeshore Paddleboard Company guarantees that our products are free of any defects or damage caused by workmanship or materials, for the duration of 180 days after the purchase date. This warranty covers only Lakeshore product purchased by an authorized Lakeshore Dealer and applies only to the original purchaser and may not be transferred. Proof of purchase in the form of the original receipt is required and must be presented at the time of the warranty claim.
This warranty commitment does not cover any other claim conditions such as normal wear & tear; exposure to extreme temperatures or excessive direct sun light; impact with any material or object; collisions, abuse, misuse or accidental damage; transport, loading, unloading, dropping, out of water handling or similar; nature such as earthquakes, fires, etc.; alterations, modifications, or repairs; improper storage; incorrect set-up; use in commercial, rental, or teaching environments; or any other irresponsible use. Cosmetic flaws do not affect the functionality and performance of the product and are not applicable to the warranty.